Ender 3 (V2 & Pro & Neo & S1) Max Temperature – Explained

While the maximum temperature capability of your Ender 3 isn’t much of a concern when printing PLA, it quickly becomes an essential factor to consider when planning to switch to a different filament with higher temperature requirements.

In this guide, we will go through the maximum hotend and bed temperatures that the Ender 3 can reach safely and discuss the methods you can utilize to increase the maximum hotend temperature to be able to print filaments that require higher temperatures with your Ender 3.

Ender 3 (V2 & Pro & Neo & S1) Maximum Hotend Temperature

For all Ender 3 models with the PTFE-lined heat break (which only excludes the Ender 3 S1 Pro with an all-metal hotend), the default maximum hotend temperature value defined in the stock firmware is 260°C.

marlin firmware max hotend temperature

The maximum hotend temperature for the Ender 3 S1 Pro is defined as 300°C in the stock firmware, and as the all-metal hotend makes it possible to reach such temperatures without issues, the Ender 3 S1 Pro, in particular, will be exempt from the rest of the discussion in this article.

On the other hand, despite being reachable by default, 260°C is far from a safe temperature for an Ender 3, as the stock PTFE lining inside the heat break starts going through a process known as off-gassing at a much lower point, which can be harmful to humans and animals alike.

For instance, Capricorn, a manufacturer widely known in the 3D printing community for producing high-quality PTFE tubes, states that the off-gassing from PTFE can start becoming harmful to pet birds over 200°C based on their research.

Additionally, even Capricorn themselves, who inarguably maintain a much higher standard of quality compared to the stock PTFE tube you will find in your 3D printer, point out that the off-gassing above 260°C can actually become a safety concern for humans with their own TL-series tubing.

With this in mind, and additionally taking into account factors such as the stock PTFE tube in an Ender 3 not being as high-quality as a Capricorn PTFE tube and incorrect thermistor readings or firmware issues potentially pushing the temperature higher than intended, we can consider 240°C the maximum safe hotend temperature for a default Ender 3 where the PTFE tubing won’t create issues.

Aside from the safety concerns, which can be solved to an extent by taking measures such as setting your 3D printer in a separate, well-ventilated room, crossing the 240°C mark will prove to be harmful to the tubing itself as well, especially in the long run.

In a nutshell, when exposed to such high temperatures for prolonged periods, the PTFE tubing starts to slowly deteriorate and decompose over time, which disrupts its physical form and causes it to lose its lubricative qualities.

This degradation results in the filament being exposed to more friction during movement, which can eventually lead to the filament getting stuck within the tubing during printing, essentially causing a clog that will cause your prints to fail.

In such a scenario, it becomes necessary to remove the old tubing in the heat break and replace it with a new one, as the same clogging problem will keep happening with the old tubing even if you clear out the clog after it first occurs.

Ender 3 (V2 & Pro & Neo & S1) Maximum Bed Temperature

For all the Ender 3 models (except the Ender 3 S1 Pro yet again), the advertised maximum bed temperature by Creality is 100°C.

For the Ender 3 S1 Pro, the advertised maximum bed temperature is 110°C instead.

In this case, the advertised maximum temperature is correct, and in fact, the heated beds of the non-S1 Pro Ender 3 models are also capable of reaching 110°C without issues.

While there have been rumors about the Ender 3 bed not being able to exceed 80°C without losing its magnetic capabilities, this has been proven to be wrong.

How to Increase the Maximum Hotend Temperature of an Ender 3?

There are a few different methods you can utilize to increase the maximum hotend temperature of your Ender 3, with each method offering a different temperature limit and, naturally, requiring a different cost.

Replacing Stock PTFE Liner with High-Quality PTFE Tubing (250-260°C)

Starting out, the easiest and most budget-friendly way of increasing the maximum hotend temperature of your Ender 3 is to replace the stock PTFE liner with a high-quality one, such as a Capricorn tube, which will push up the point where PTFE off-gassing and degradation occurs.

As this method only consists of pulling out the old tubing from the heat break and putting the new one in, you’re not replacing any part of your Ender 3 that isn’t already consumable in this case, which is what makes this method easier and cheaper than the rest.

The downside of this method, as you may predict, is the relatively limited increase to the maximum, with the range of 250°C to 260°C being the most that can be achieved (at least entirely safely) based on the quality of the tubing you use, which is a shortcoming of PTFE itself as a material and therefore can’t be avoided.

So, while this upgrade will allow you to reach the higher portions of the temperature ranges for filaments such as PETG and ABS, filaments that require even higher temperatures, such as Polycarbonate, will still be out of reach.

Switching to an All-Metal (or Bi-Metal) Heat Break (300°C)

The next method you can use to increase the maximum hotend temperature of your Ender 3 is to replace the PTFE-lined heat break with an all-metal, or even better, a bi-metal one.

The newer bi-metal design, where two different metals are used for the cold zone and the hot zone of the heat break, prevents heat from the hot zone from being transferred to the cold zone (heat creep), which makes it the preference over the initial all-metal design where a single metal is used.

Unlike a PTFE-lined heat break, where the PTFE tubing goes all the way down into the hot zone and pushes up against the nozzle, an all-metal/bi-metal keeps the PTFE tubing exclusively in the cold zone, preventing it from ever being exposed to the high temperatures of the nozzle.

While swapping the heat break will cost more and likely require more effort than replacing the PTFE liner, this process will allow your Ender 3 to reach 300°C without any other changes (can’t reliably go higher with the stock heat block, nozzle, and thermistor even if the heat break supports it), as the shortcomings of PTFE will be completely out of the picture.

The downside of using an all-metal heat break, on the other hand, presents itself when printing with filaments with a low melting point, such as PLA, as heat creep (which can be a problem even with a bi-metal heat break) can cause the filament to start melting in the cold zone and create a clog.

So, if you plan on regularly printing with filaments that require high temperatures, such as Nylon and Polycarbonate, a heat break upgrade will be the perfect choice for your Ender 3.

Remember to change the maximum temperature (refer to the following section) in the firmware, PID tune, reconfigure retraction, and recalibrate E-steps after replacing the heat break with a new one.

Using an All-Metal Hotend (300+°C)

The last method you can utilize to increase your Ender 3’s maximum hotend temperature is to replace the hotend completely, which is the most expensive and complex option on our list, but also the one with the potential to increase the temperature limit the most.

Depending on the hotend you choose, you can bring the temperature limit up to and above 300°C with this method, as all the stock parts that affect the temperature limit, whether it’s the thermistor or the heat break, will be replaced entirely in this case.

For instance, the Mosquito hotend by Slice Engineering can bring your Ender 3’s maximum hotend temperature to a whopping 500°C(!) when combined with their RTD Pt100/1000 thermistor and 50W heater cartridge, and while this is an extreme example, it shows us what’s possible with a hotend upgrade.

The downside of using an all-metal hotend, on the other hand, is the same downside that applies to switching the heat break (issues with low melting point filaments, such as PLA), as an all-metal hotend comes with an all-metal/bi-metal heat break by default (which is why it’s called an all-metal hotend).

All things considered, a hotend upgrade would only be worthwhile if you’re looking to gain something else out of the upgrade, such as switching to a Direct Drive system or increasing volumetric flow, or if you’re planning on printing above 300°C, as swapping the heat break is a much more convenient solution if increasing the max temperature to 300°C is your only goal.

Additionally, considering that the only time you would need to go above 300°C is for printing with industrial filaments (Polycarbonate can rarely go up to 310°C-320°C for some brands), such as PEI (Ultem) or PEEK, which would practically be unprintable with an Ender 3 unless you overhaul the entire printer (new PSU, new heated bed, heated enclosure & external heating, cooling for stepper motors, ruby nozzle, etc.), we don’t see much of a reason to upgrade the hotend for only a max temperature increase unless you have something very specific in mind.

Remember that you will need to go through calibration steps such as changing the maximum temperature (see the section below) and thermistor ID (only if your new hotend uses a different type of thermistor) in the firmware, leveling the bed again, recalibrating the offsets, reconfiguring retraction, PID tuning, recalibrating E-steps, etc. after changing the hotend.

Increasing Marlin Firmware Hotend Temperature Limit

If you have chosen to replace the stock heat break with an all-metal (or bi-metal) one or switch out the stock hotend completely for an all-metal hotend, you will need to modify the default temperature limits in the firmware before you can use the full potential of your upgrade.

To start, open the Configuration.h file in the Marlin firmware source code, and find the HEATER_0_MAXTEMP variable, which is responsible for defining the absolute maximum where the firmware will automatically shut the heater off to protect it from an overheating scenario.

marlin firmware heater max temp

Next, set this variable to a number that is 15 degrees above what you want the new maximum temperature limit to be, which should be determined by the specifications of the hotend you have installed.

For instance, if the specified maximum temperature for your new hotend is 400°C, set the value of the HEATER_0_MAXTEMP variable to 415°C to make it possible to set the hotend temperature up to 400°C with G-code or the panel.

modifying maximum temperature in marlin firmware

Additionally, if you have upgraded the thermistor (necessary to surpass 300°C as that’s the limit for the stock thermistor), you will need to find and adjust the TEMP_SENSOR_0 variable in Configuration.h as well (the setting that makes it possible to tell Marlin the type of thermistor you are using), which comes down to two reasons.

First, the value of this variable determines the thermistor lookup table that Marlin will be using to interpret the readings of the thermistor, which is the only way for the firmware to know which temperature value the current resistance of the thermistor corresponds to.

So, if this value is set incorrectly, the firmware won’t be able to correctly convert the resistance values that the thermistor is outputting into temperature values, practically meaning that there will be a disparity between the actual hotend temperature what the firmware thinks is the current hotend temperature.

Second, the type of the thermistor determines the maximum and minimum temperature values it can safely operate at, and as a result, Marlin also puts these values into consideration when limiting the hotend temperature to avoid a scenario where the hotend reaches temperature that the thermistor cannot read reliably.

With this in mind, we can naturally conclude letting Marlin firmware know that you have installed a thermistor capable of operating at higher temperatures will also be required to increase the hotend temperature limit.

marlin thermistor id table

For instance, in the case of a stock Ender 3, you will find that the TEMP_SENSOR_0 value is set to 1, which is the code for the standard EPCOS thermistor that an Ender 3 ships with, as you can also see from the above screenshot taken from the relevant section in Configuration.h.

So, if you replace the stock thermistor with a better alternative, such as Slice Engineering’s High Temperature Thermistor, which offers a model that can handle 450 degrees Celsius, you would need to change the TEMP_SENSOR_0 value to 67 (once again referring to the table from the above screenshot) to let the firmware know that these temperatures are now safe and readable by the thermistor.

Once that’s done as well, you can save your modifications to the Configuration.h file, compile the firmware from the modified source code, and flash the new firmware to your Ender 3, which should increase your temperature limit.

Additionally, for those wondering, the reason behind adding 15 to the maximum temperature value is the HOTEND_OVERSHOOT variable, which is set to 15 by default.

When determining the maximum temperature value that can be set, whether it’s through G-code or the panel, the firmware subtracts the HOTEND_OVERSHOOT value from the HEATER_0_MAXTEMP value, which creates some wiggle room between the maximum temperature value that is available for usage and the absolute maximum temperature at which the heater will shut down.

marlin firmware hotend overshoot

This way, if the temperature briefly overshoots the target by a few degrees for any reason (such as the PID not being tuned) when setting it to the maximum, it will still be below the limit for overheating protection and won’t prompt the printer to shut the heater off.


While the Ender 3 is advertised to have a maximum hotend temperature of 260 degrees Celsius, the actual maximum temperature that the hotend can safely reach is much less, primarily due to the usage of a PTFE-lined hotend that isn’t exactly of the highest quality.

That being said, as Ender 3 is an easily upgradable 3D printer, it’s possible to go over the default temperature limit with a few quick modifications and print filaments that require higher temperatures without any issues, meaning you won’t have to replace your printer completely.